Lake Malawi - Malawi

Lake Malawi (also known as Lake Nyasa, Lake Nyassa, Lake Niassa, and Lago Niassa in Mozambique), is the most southerly lake in the Great African Rift Valley system. The lake, third largest in Africa and the ninth largest in the world, is situated between Malawi, Mozambique, and Tanzania. The lake's tropical waters teem with more fish species than any other lake on Earth. Famously visited by the Scottish explorer and missionary David Livingstone, Lake Malawi has sometimes historically been referred to by English-speaking people as "Livingstone's Lake."// GeographyLake Malawi is between 560 and

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I've noticed that my female lake malawi mbuna cichlid (vibrant orange), has been cleaning out a little area under one of my rocks. I have a crushed coral substrate that a precycled and put in the tank about 2 days ago. The orange cichlid has been picking up the crushed coral n his mouth and spitting it elsewhere. She has made to burrows under some garden rocks. Also, the albino zebra (male) has been helping but tends to scare the female away. Sometimes the male will shake very quickly and lute the female to the spot. They are still very young (1/2-2 inches). The Albino zebra is also changing to orange. His dorsal and very back fin is turning the same orange as the Female. Oh yah, and there is another male that is a little bit smaller than the zebra, that is vibrating too, but the albino zebra scares him THANKS!

Guppie _ Guy :
"Lake Malawi cichlids are maternal mouth brooders. In other words, the female lays the eggs, has them fertilized by the male and takes them into her mouth to hold for several weeks until which time the eggs hatch and the fry are ready to be released. Typically, females hold from 2-4 weeks. During this time, the female eats very little or nothing at all. You can tell she is holding by looking at her enlarged buccal cavity (throat area) and her mostly closed mouth. The eggs hatch at around 1 week and develop into fry. At around 2 weeks, the fry have pretty much absorbed their egg sacs that provide them with nutrition during their first stages of life. When the female releases the fry depends on many factors including age (of the female), species type, her health, her hunger, the water conditions in the tank, the water temperature, etc., but in most cases, this occurs before 4 weeks have past. There are several methods you can employ to harvest the fry and raise the little cichlids to maturity. With the first method, you can leave the female in the main tank and let her spit the fry out naturally. The fewer the number of other adult fish in the tank and the more shelter provided, the greater the chances of fry survival. Remember, it is up to you to provide these conditions to increase the fry's odds. This method is the most natural, however tends to lessen the chances for survival for the little fry. Additionally, this method creates more stress on the female as she has to fend off males and other fish that wish to make the fry a snack. The second method is to remove the female from the main tank and transfer her to an unoccupied tank where she can release the fry when she is ready with no fear of other fish eating them. This way allows you to save the majority of the fry and lessen the stress on the female. Once in the tank, the female may spit the fry and let them roam for food and quickly take them back as soon as anyone approaches the tank. She may do this for some time until she feels the fry can fend for themselves. It is rare that a female eats her own fry, however this can occasionally happen. For that reason, it is a good idea to remove her after she has spat and take her back to the main tank or a recovery tank to gain some of her weight back. Then you can raise the fry in their own tank without the worry of losing them to other bigger fish. With the third method, you can strip the fry from the female. This involves catching the female and transferring her to a bucket half full of her own tank water. With her in the bucket, gently hold her in your palm under the water. Make sure you do not cover her gill plates so she can still breath. Using either your fingernail or a fine tool like a toothpick or pencil, gently pry her mouth open by pressing on her lower lip. This will allow the fry to escape out of the mouth and into the bucket. You can check if most of the fry are out of the female's cavity by lifting her out of the water and looking in her mouth. A strong light may help to see better. After the fry are stripped, you can return the female to the main tank or to a recovery tank. Stripping is best done after the female has held for at least 2 weeks. That way the eggs have hatched and the fry are mature enough to take easy care of. You can either transfer the fry into their own tank or into a breeder cage to raise up until they are large enough to release into another tank. Stripping fry is often useful when a female is immature and known to spit prematurely or just does not hold to full term regardless of age. Stripping also ensures that the fry do not get eaten by either the female or other tank mates. A final method is to strip the eggs from the female after they have been fertilized. This method requires that you artificially incubate the eggs in an egg tumbler. This device aerates the eggs so that they hatch properly. Stripping the eggs is done the same way as stripping the fry, but done as soon as the mating ritual is complete and the female has a mouth full of eggs. This method tends to result in the most fry when done properly. It is useful when the female is known to spit prematurely or swallow her eggs. The eggs in the tumbler typically hatch within a week and are well developed fry before the 3rd week is up. Once the fry have been separated from their mother and are mature enough to accept food, make sure you feed them often. Most fry will accept finely crushed flake food and/or live/frozen brine shrimp as soon as they have absorbed their egg sacks. See Food for Fry for more options and information. Fast, healthy growth in fry depends on many factors but most importantly, good water conditions, a large tank, frequent feeding, proper diet and adequate lighting. Most Malawi cichlids are well capable of breeding once a month so be prepared and enjoy your fry! ~ GG"
Jackp1ne :
"Most Malawi cichlids are mouth brooders,it is just their natural behaviour to move rocks and rearrange there decor.I think if he is kind of vibrating it can be a sign of aggression in some cichlids."
redcar :

what kind of lake malawi chichlids can i house on my 40 gallon aquarium here are the fish that is on my list electric yellow Sunshine Peacock Yellow Tail Acei any suggestion on what possible fish can i put add in more the better so i have more choices i preffered my tank to be colorfull

dylansmum2 :
"it's your choice. What do you like?"
bettachris :
"peacocks tend to be aggressive, so im not sure what your going with. but zebras are non aggressive. They are colorful. easy, and smaller than peacocks."
Ally s :
"i would just add the 3 you allready have"
fivespeed302 :
"I have a 55 gallon with mbunas similar to your electric yellow and the acei. I also have peacocks and haps. The mbunas will often bully my peacocks and haps, but so far I have not had any deaths. If I could do it over again, I would not mix mbunas with peacocks. If you go with just the electric yellows and the acei's make sure to put in a bunch of rocks. If you go with peacocks, they like sandy bottoms and open areas for swimming. Other nice looking mbunas that will mix well are the elongatus, demasonii, rusty, red top zebras, exasperatus, fuelliborni. There are lots of great pics on this site but many of the cichlids you will see are not available on the market. Most of the popular ones are on there as well."
Fishguy :
"Lake Malawi cichlids come in two flavors: mean and meaner. Not really, but usually they can all be put together if the tank is large enough and there are plenty of stacked rock structures for dividing up territory. A 40 gallon is a good size for cichlids and if you start out with small ones, most of the varieties should be fine together. People run into aggression sometimes when they try to add one or two new fish to an already established community of Malawi cichlids. The new guys have a hard time finding a territory and usually get abused in the process of carving a space out."
Ghapy :
"5 is right about mbuna and aulonocara, the exceptions being the two types you already have, as well as the rusty's, since they are much more docile then typical mbuna. With a group of yellows, a group of acei, and a single male peacock, it will be more colourful then you realize. The problem with putting too many species in is that you won't be able to keep them in appropriate sized groups. If you go with hostile fish like demsoni and some others mentioned above, then you should forget all of your current choices and aim for a more aggressive tank altogether, and then cross your fingers and hope for the best. There's a reason they weren't on my first list."
feenforbmx :

i have about 11 lake malawi cichlids and i was reading about the malawi bloat and dont want to over feed my fish with too much protein so i was wondering about how many times a day should i feed my fish

Ghapy :
"You can feed them once or twice or three times per day - bloat has nothing to do with how often you feed them, but what you feed them and how much at once. (in fact, the more often you feed them, the less you can feed them each time, and the less prone to bloat they would be) Foods to avoid are worms, bloodworms, warm-blooded meats, and carnivorous pellet diets. Foods like brine and mysis shrimp are very healthy supplements, but keep the feedings light and avoid stuffing them to the gills. As a staple, daily diet for the more herbivorous Malawi cichlids I highly recommend Spirulina flakes. Spirulina is high in protein, which all fish need, but it's plant protein, which is easy for them to digest. You can feed spirulina several times per day with no negetive effect aside from more waste output from the fish. As a diet to go along with this, a small sized, high quality cichlid pellet is best. I know New Life Spectrum makes an excellent one. Get the smallest sized pellets you can find and it will be that much easier for the fish to handle. Feed this to them just once per day, and feel free to skip days once or twice or even three times per week - depending what other foods you are giving them. Of course, Malawi also has many predatory cichlids that are not prone to bloat and can get a more substantial diet. Most haplochromines fall into this category - you don't need to worry about bloat with them, as long as you avoid plainly bad foods like worms and meat from birds and mammals."
Ash :
"Two times a day is just fine, you just want to make sure they are getting a balanced diet of not only meaty foods and pellets, but vegetable pellets and spirulina types of foods. Also foods like freeze-dried krill aids in digestion as it is kind of a ruffage. What I have always done for my Malawi cichlids is feed them a type of pelleted food in the mornings (red=meaty or green=veggi) and in the evenings I alternate freeze-dried foods: bloodworms, krill, mysis shrimp, or frozen foods. Just avoid feeding freeze-dried foods at every meal and only feed what they will eat in about 3 minutes."
Jackp1ne :
"I feed mine twice a day,mine are herbivores so I feed them spirulina flakes as the staple of their diet with some tropical flakes and cichlid pellets mixed in for variety. It depends what cichlids you have what they should eat,a proper diet is the key to avoiding bloat."
~.C.H.R.I.S.~ :
"Usually, feeding your fish in the morning and at night is best. I especially like feeding my fish when someone is around so they can enjoy seeing all that fish stuff."


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Date: 2008-02-05 13:32:08

Zambia is a vast plateau bordered by Angola, Democratic Republic of Congo, Tanzania, Malawi, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia. The Zambezi River together with Lake Kariba forms the frontier with Zimbabwe.

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